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Generally, dogs are very clean animals – they won’t soil close to where they eat, or where they sleep. But living in a house is unnatural for an animal whose instincts would be to roam wherever she wants to go, so you will have to help her learn where and when she can relieve herself.

It is essential that you form good toilet habits for your dog as early on as possible. Trying to break the habit of a dog is quite difficult and it can be very frustrating. You need to use guidance and encouragement to help the pet. Animal behaviorists have some helpful tips that you can use to help with the housebreaking of your pet.

Believe it or not, dogs are sanitary creatures. If a dog does soil accidentally in the wrong place, it is likely that it will be far from his dog dish, at least six to ten feet. This is true for the place where the dog sleeps as well. But, unless you find a good place for her to go and train her in that manner, the rest of your house is okay to them.

The process for housebreaking a dog is the same if he is a puppy or an adult dog new to your home. You’ll need to take him outside every few hours and also 30 minutes after he eats. Take your pet to the designated bathroom spot. Stay with the pet until she goes, and then praise her when she does. If she does not go, bring her back inside and try again in fifteen minutes. Watch her though. If the dog starts sniffing and circling take them out right away as this is a sign that she is about to go. Pay attention to her signs and take her out. Soon, she will relate to going outside to going to the bathroom.

Some dogs are housebroken much faster than others. Some dogs personality will cause her to go one way or the other. But, if you take her outside at the right time, it will go smoother. A puppy of less than four months old will need to go out during the night. Older puppies can hold it that long. A dog that cries to be let out has an urgent need. Get up and take her out, she needs every chance to succeed that she can get. Positive reinforcement is necessary for success.

Your approach and how you treat your dog will greatly affect the learning ability. If you catch your dog going in the act, distract her with a clap or call her name. You really need to approach this with patience. Clean up any accident that you find on the floor. If the dog approaches during this time, ignore her. Don’t talk to or punish her at this point. The worst thing that you can do is to yell at her or physically punish her. This will cause her to fear you and to not bond as well to you. She wont connect it to the accident at all. Don’t create a negative condition and you and your dog will do fine together!

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Everyone in the house will be so excited to bring a new puppy home. Reality hits once everyone realizes that it may take a team effort to train the dog with patience and love. Potty training your dog is one of the first tasks, and this alone will call on your to muster up all the patience and effort you have.

If you try to potty train your dog to go to potty outside before it is a month old you may be wasting your time. It’s easier and better to start potty training your puppy around two months of age. At this point, the best approach is to work out some kind of routine with your puppy. Haphazard training rarely works.

Determine how often you think your puppy needs to go out. Establish a time range like every 30 minutes or every 45 minutes. Then stick to your schedule to train your puppy. As they grow older, the time between potty outings can grow farther apart. It’s also a good idea to take the dog out before a meal so that you are not interrupted for a potty break during your meal.

Get a routine going and maintain it and you will have your puppy potty trained in no time. Trust me; it seems to take forever if you don’t work with your dog on a schedule. You and your puppy will be more happy with a schedule which you intend to stick with.

Some people feel that establishing a routine is just too excessive. The reality is that it is a fairly simple thing to do, and it will help get your puppy trained. It is the best way for your puppy to learn. Just like potty training a child, your puppy will need to see and complete the process a number of times before it actually “clicks” that going outside means time to potty.

If your puppy refuses to go outside try your best to figure out the problem. The first thing the dog has to learn to do is potty outside, not inside. Once that is mastered you can begin to work on other puppy issues, like barking.

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Every so often the differentiation between training discipline and constraint is needlessly confused. Using verbal commands and non-verbal clues, with leashes or snacks, to solicit wanted behavior is training discipline. Using choke or ’stop-barking’ collars, electronic fences or barriers and related devices is for constraint or prevention of unwanted behavior.

Restraint/constraint isn’t needfully a negative factor. Dogs by nature want and look for social continuity in which someone is the alpha (leader); and in any human-dog pair the person has to take that position. To relinquish your role as the leader (alpha) will mean destruction of belongings, potentially unhealthy circumstances for other pets and people, human conflict and an unstable dog. The question is how best to acquire compliance from your dog.

Choke collars were conceived to help in getting control. Dogs are like humans in that each has their own character and traits. Some are, as a result, more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don’t react positively to a conventional leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can supply additional deterrence to tugging and leaping.

The imminent drawback is that, used inadequately – all too simple to do – correction collars can have the opposite result to what you expected and may even be unsafe. Choke collars fit only one way and when suitably fitted should make allowance for a one to three fingers opening between the neck and the collar. Three for bigger dogs, one for smaller. Generally speaking a collar two inches longer than the length around the neck will be adequate.

Used crudely, though, choke collars can pinch the skin – resulting in lesions that scratching will make worse. They can also by mistake pinch the trachea. A fast yank-and-release does no damage; however by its construction it does cause discomfort. But for dogs that try to defy the tether this technique can be difficult to be successful with. Ordinarily, it is not recommended, chiefly for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less hazardous than they appear, but have almost no positive characteristics -in this trainer’s opinion. The only good aspect of the structure is their limited diameter – they can only clinch down so far. Nonetheless, a critter with such a strong-willed tendency to pull that prongs do not deter him cries out for a re-thinking of his whole training regime. That animal requires persistent training and behavior modification manipulation.

Halter collars, which envelop the neck and the muzzle, but don’t stop panting or prohibit drinking and eating can give further constraint. The drawback is they don’t inhibit biting if that’s an issue. If biting is not a problem an everyday tether and collar, or maybe a chest halter might be preferable.

‘Stop-barking’ collars on occasion work when training those dogs that continue in a barking mode way past the reason to do so is gone. Barking is natural and an ordinary response to potential danger and is also used to draw attention when one becomes removed or separated from the group. But, for reasons not all that well comprehended, some individuals continue barking day in and day out or are set off by the most minor events.

Electronic collars that deter barking come in two main varieties: Shock producing collars and noise producing collars. Noise collars create a brief, uncomfortable noise that acts as a diversion and helps to prevent unrelenting barking.

Shock collars generate a quick but discomforting electronic shock that can be sustained during lengthy or recurring barking. Evenhanded and objective experimentation to discover their effectiveness divulge mixed conclusions – they work with some dogs and not others. On the other hand, as with prong collars, any dog in need of one would profit if, in addition, he had precise, professional training using behavior modification methods.

At times the perceived quickest route to solving a problem seems attractive and doable… until they become an overused alternative to more appropriate (both to trainer and dog) long-term training. Putting in the time to comprehend how to gain your dog’s undivided attention and compliance without inordinate amounts of reliance on control equipment is definitely the better way to go. The results are happier dog handlers and more stable dogs.

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There is still some disagreement about whether or not crate training dogs is the right way to go. Crating a dog involves keeping them in a cage just slightly larger than themselves, usually a plastic or metal one for a time, either at night or during the day.

The proponents of crate training maintain that a dog which has been crate trained is easier to housebreak, since crating a dog teaches them to hold off on elimination until they are allowed outside. Since animals instinctively are reluctant to do this in the place where they lie down, the thinking goes, this helps to speed along housebreaking. They also point to crates as a place which a dog can consider as its own private space where it can escape from the antics of children in the household and be comforted by its familiar smell.

There are of course crate training detractors as well. Their view is that restricting a dog’s movement by keeping it in a cage which offers barely enough room to turn around robs dogs of the opportunity to act on their natural inclination to roam and explore its surroundings.

Those on the negative side of the debate say that crate training can be counterproductive to housebreaking your pet, pointing out that puppies especially will be unable to hold themselves back from eliminating for as long as they may be in the cage and come to think of indoors as an acceptable place for this activity, which makes housebreaking the dog more difficult.

Now of course both sides make some valid points and no one doubts the good intentions of either camp. Studies done on the subject have yet to yield anything close to a definitive answer. The general consensus, however is that as long as it is done with care and common sense there is little to no harm and indeed there is some good which can come from crate training.

Of course, common sense has to be exercised. Keeping your pet in a cage for many hours on end is not healthy for your dog. Four hours is the maximum length of time you should crate your dog. Keeping your dog cooped up longer than this is a serious strain on their ability to hold back from eliminating and of course, most dogs are far too active to be happy sitting still for this long.

Care also needs to be taken to prevent injury to your dog while in the crate. The cage should be examined to make sure that there are no sharp edges or anywhere that your dog’s collar can snag on the crate. Any cage you keep your dog in should be sturdy enough that it won’t tip or break even under vigorous jostling.

Pets which are accustomed to the crate do however tend to travel better than do others. Since they are already accustomed to spending time in close quarters, they’ll be far calmer when traveling.

Another school of thought holds that pets should be left at home while their owners travel anyway. However, if it is necessary to travel with your pet, use a well built crate which prevents any foreign objects getting in, as well as falling out.

While this is an argument which is unlikely to be settled anytime soon, both sides make good points. Pet owners should decide for themselves ” but why not let your dog have a vote too? Try crating them for a few weeks, then leaving the crate open. Your dog will let you know how they feel about things by avoiding the crate or actively seeking it out.

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