Your dog’s ancestors were, indeed, predators, but they weren’t invincible. Especially when separated from their packs, they were vulnerable in unfamiliar situations that included unknown creatures and landscapes. This fear was necessary for survival, and lives on in modern dogs.

This instinct has carried over to modern times, in our dogs’ fears of strangers and unfamiliar venues. Often, because dogs aren’t comfortable in those unfamiliar situations, their fears can manifest as aggression.

For these reasons, not excluding the safety of your family, neighbors, other dogs, and your own dog, it’s important to start socializing your puppy as early as possible.

Starting at the age of eight weeks, and through her sixteenth week, your puppy is the most impressionable. A conscientious dog owner will grasp this brief chance to introduce the world to his or her puppy, to prove that the world is an exciting place, worthy of confident exploration.

When you picture your life with your adult dog, what do you see? Whatever activities you desire, do those things with your puppy, plus more. Here are a few suggestions:

Expose your puppy to children, so that she can learn to view their quick movements and shrill voices as nonthreatening.

Take your puppy for rides in the car.

Walk her on nature trails, where she’ll see squirrels, birds, etc.

Introduce her to other dogs. Dog parks and dog obedience training schools are terrific ways to accomplish this.

Frequent city sidewalks. Give your puppy the chance to develop a tolerance for loud engines, horns, cyclists, pedestrians, and other walking dogs.

Visit the vet, the groomer, the pet retailer, and the kennel so that your puppy can familiarize herself with the smells, sounds, and sights of these places.

Know where, in your town, welcome mats are put out for dogs. Often, banks, pet stores, and hardware stores will welcome your puppy. Give your puppy plenty of time to meet and greet, and get treats from, the proprietors and patrons of these establishments.

Use clicker training to reward her most confident behavior, despite sharp noises, quick children, and unfamiliar dogs.

If your puppy is frightened by a noise or a strange dog or human, ignore her fear. If you reassure her, she’ll mistake that reassurance for reward of her fearful behavior. Disregard this behavior, and save the rewards for the time when she sheds the fearful display.

Don’t force a puppy to take part in a scenario that is causing fear. Instead, talk to the stranger, or stand tall in the face of a noisy motor, and she will take a cue from you. When she finally does relax and join in, click and offer a reward.

Often, dog owners aren’t able to find the time or the physical energy to get their puppies out into the world. In these cases, it’s important that these dog owners invite visitors to their homes to meet their puppies, and that they hire a dog walker or top dog trainer to escort the puppy on jaunts around the great wide world. If these measures aren’t taken, the puppy will grow to be a reclusive dog who is fearful of visitors, vet visits, etc.

Every time you take your puppy for a ride, or a walk, or meander through a crowd of people with her, she’s gaining the confidence that’s necessary to be a calm, friendly adult dog.

You know how it feels to walk into a party full of people you don’t know. It can be disconcerting, and can cause anxiety. Your dog experiences these same feelings in unfamiliar situations, so make it your mission to introduce your puppy to the world, early on. Your dog obedience training success, and your dog human relationship, will thank you.

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Housebreaking: Using a crate is the most desired way to start with housebreaking a puppy, since it’s easier to keep track of his whereabouts when he’s in the crate. This should be an area filled with toys and a comfortable bed for him to nap on. Try taking him outside every hour to relieve himself, until you know how long his breaks are between bathroom needs. It’s a good idea to give him a break from the kennel every couple of hours, just to have a chance to romp around the house. The crate method is great for the evenings too, since puppies will usually whine when they need to go to the bathroom in the night when they are crated.

The other method of housebreaking is by simply monitoring the puppy’s whereabouts all day long. This works for people who are able to do so consistently. Not everyone can do this all day long.

People who use this method watch for signs of bathroom searching and immediately take the pup outside. As soon as his nose goes to the ground, you might only have a few seconds before he starts to leave a puddle.

Once you figure out his bathroom pattern, then you can adjust the amount of time in the kennel. It’s a good idea to let him out every two hours or so to play, even if he doesn’t need to use the bathroom. Dogs usually won’t make a mess where they sleep, so be prepared for some whining in the night when he needs to relieve himself.

Chewing: Problem chewing can be solved by having plenty of chew toys available for your new puppy. Sometimes sore gums is an issue and is why chewing starts. Having a clean sock in the freezer that is filled with some crushed ice is a great treat for soothing sore gums.

You will need to replace this item with a toy of his own, so he knows that chewing is okay, but only on his toys. For new puppy teeth, having a clean sock with crushed ice in it is a great chew toy. This can be kept in the freezer when not in use and provided when there seems to be an excessive amount of chewing going on.

The key to having these puppy training tips be successful is by being consistent with each process. Getting frustrated and giving up will only confuse your puppy. There is a lot of work involved in the beginning with letting him know what all the rules are, but once he has them down, he will be a very well-behaved little pup.

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Watching a Killer Whale doing a routine directed by two young women, I realized that they had trained the large animal to perform in that manner using positive reinforcement tactics. The same method will enable you to train your new puppy. Positive reinforcement is the choice method for most of the experts in the dog training field today. No other training method is considered as humane or effective.

Some of the popular dog training techniques of the past are completely opposite from today’s preferred method. Some of these outdated methods are now considered abusive and are avoided by all who wish to treat their dogs in a humane manner. Using the more humane positive reinforcement method you can have a puppy that is a well-trained and a loved member of the family.

Puppies are easily confused when given commands. The thing you have in your favor as you train your puppy is that there is a strong desire on her part to please you. Just be sure that she knows each time what you want her to do. To accomplish this you must use the same words each time for the same command. If you want her to sit don’t say “sit here” one time and “sit down” another. Always use the same word or phrase. Your puppy will soon know exactly what is expected and behave accordingly.

Use meaningful rewards to facilitate the training process. Dogs get bored pretty quickly with a routine pat on the head and a “good girl”. Most dogs don’t even like being patted on the head; watch their expressions and notice how most will balk or shy away when a hand descends towards their head. If you want to use touching your puppy as a reward we have found that most dogs really like having the base of the tail (the lowest part of their back, just before the tail starts) scratched gently; having their chests rubbed or scratched (right between the forelegs) is usually a winner, too. You can also target the ears: gently rub the ear flap between your thumb and finger, or scratch gently at the base.

Using tempting rewards will help maintain the quality of your puppy’s training. Most dogs will respond in a positive way on a consistent basis to physical attention and food treats. Just be sure you give your puppy something for a food treat that you already know she likes. The same goes for physical attention

Use the right timing. When your dog obeys a command, you must mark the behavior that you’re going to reward so that, when she gets that treat in her mouth, she understands exactly what behavior it was that earned her the reward.

Using your voice as a marker will also help your puppy in her training. However, you must be sure that even though your voice helps, she must receive a treat immediately. Do not give her verbal praise unless you are going to be consistent with it.

For puppy training to be totally successful you and your puppy must both find it pleasant. Do not schedule training time when you are exhausted; be sure that your rewards are something she is willing to work for.

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A guide for training your puppy is listed below. Remember that accidents will happen even if you have a full grown dog.

To house train your puppy faster, be consistent. Training can last for several weeks or more so be patient.

Create a routine.

As with babies, puppies learn faster with normal schedules. This helps the puppy learn that there is a time for going to the bathroom, playing and eating.

Normally, a puppy is able to control their bladder one hour for every month of age. If your puppy is three months old, he can hold it for about three hours. Make sure to schedule the bathroom breaks accordingly or an accident will probably happen. A dog walker may need to be hired if you work outside of the home so your puppy will have his bathroom breaks.

Your puppy should be taken outside after or during playing, after he eats or drinks and as soon as he gets up. Find a spot outside that will be the designated bathroom area. Use a leash and take him to that area. Using phrases or words like go potty while he is using the bathroom will teach him that this means go to the bathroom.

Rewards are one way to teach your puppy. When he has finished using the bathroom praise him or give him a treat before he goes back into the house.

On average, puppies eat approximately three to four times per day. Feed your puppy at the same time to help develop a regular feeding schedule and bathroom schedule.

To keep your puppy from needing to use the bathroom in the middle of the night, put his dishes up about two hours before bedtime. If he does wake up in the middle of the night, stay calm, so he won’t think it is time to play. Don’t turn on a lot of lights or play with him. Take him outside and then go back to bed.

Supervise.

Keep an eye on your puppy when he is inside so he will not soil in the house.

Keep him by you by using a leash, that is at least six feet long, when you are not playing with him or training him. If your puppy begins to bark, scratch at the door, circle, sniff or become restless, take him outside instantly. He may need to use the bathroom. Once he is done, give him a treat or praise to reward him.

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When you love animals, you can appreciate the value in having more than one puppy or dog as a pet, regardless of their type of breed. When you have more than one dog in the house, it can be somewhat difficult to keep a clean house. Canine territorial conflict is not pretty and can destroy a house as well as stress you out. Take the instance of walking your dog at night and a rival dog wanders by your property. It may not be as simple as merely strolling back into the house.

There are ways to remedy this. Your dog needs to be taught social behavior as soon as humanly possible. They’re like children, and as children, their minds are more susceptible to learning. You remember how easily you accepted things when you were a child, right? They have not established the line between a friend and an enemy; they’re just trying to learn, and you need to take advantage of that.

Take the time to introduce your puppy to other dogs, if you only plan to keep one dog as a pet. You can teach the dog that not all dogs are the enemy. In order for it to become used to being touched, you should touch and pet the puppy. Doing so reduces the chance of the dog biting as well as creates a friendlier dog.

Make sure you have and keep a tight grip on the leash, when you introduce your dog to other dogs, at least until you are positive that they will not fight one another. It may seem controlling, however, it is your job to teach the puppy right from wrong as well as keep it safe from harm.

Puppies enjoy jumping, shoving and biting, it is part of their play; however, you can teach them not to do so. They will do this while playing with one another, just ensure they are not really hurting one another. It can be terribly annoying to try to watch television, while your puppy or dog is jumping on you continually, whether it is a lap dog or not.

Barking is a part of the nature of a dog or puppy. However, it can be nerve racking when a dog continually barks. Teach the dog not to bark continually by distracting it with a doggie treat. Keep trying even if it does not work the first few times, the dog will learn to stop barking, if you only give it a treat while it is being quiet. Using this method repeatedly will help you teach your dog to bark only when necessary.

Train a puppy or dog to be quiet by placing the animal on its back and then yell into his or her face. It does not look so pleasing to others; however, it is a good working method many professional dog trainers use to train a puppy or dog to be quiet. This method works well with rescue animals as well to help teach him or her to be quiet.

Take the time to train a puppy early. Doing so will make a much better pet of your dog or puppy. You will be able to enjoy your pet for years to come if you remember to do these things while dog training.

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You can make training your new puppy a chore or you can make it an enjoyable experience for everyone, including your dog. All it takes is a little education about animal behavior to avoid toilet training the new member of your family the wrong way.

All animals, including ourselves, do what they do through a mixture of instinct and learned behavior. You may notice that your puppy will experience some anxiety before it relieves itself anywhere in the house. That is because dogs instinctively know that they don’t want to soil their own dens, but your new puppy has just come to a new home and doesn’t know where its “den” is.

On top of that, your new puppy can’t “hold it in” for very long. It knows something is about to happen and will run around the room, whimpering and sniffing until finally it can’t wait any longer. Punishing your puppy for this would not be appropriate, because it has done nothing wrong. Laughing it off would also be inappropriate, because it needs to be shown the right place to go or it may decide that it got it right the first time!

Do not loudly scold your puppy, hit it or rub its face in its mess. Immediately clean up the area and take the waste matter outside and put it where it belongs. Take the puppy with you and let it see and smell where its waste belongs. Then go back and clean up thoroughly. Take special care to use a cleaning solution that completely eliminates the odor, remembering that your dog has a keener sense of smell than you do.

You will have to keep your eyes open for a few days or weeks if you want to successfully toilet train your puppy. Look for those behavioral signs that tell you it needs to go. Take it outside and wait for it to finish and then offer it a reward for good behavior. You will not only have shown your puppy the appropriate place to go, but have established yourself as the leader of the “pack.”

Teaching the puppy who is boss is as important as toilet training itself. Dogs are pack animals, which means that they either follow the pack or lead the pack. Your puppy must know from the beginning that it is living in your home and that you are the leader of the pack. You need not be a harsh leader. In fact, benevolent leadership is a far better way to lead.

Training a puppy from an early age is best for everyone. You will have a happy, well-adjusted pet and your life together will be satisfying for both of you.

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It is essential that you form good toilet habits for your dog as early on as possible. Trying to break the habit of a dog is quite difficult and it can be very frustrating. You need to use guidance and encouragement to help the pet. Animal behaviorists have some helpful tips that you can use to help with the housebreaking of your pet.

Believe it or not, dogs are sanitary creatures. If a dog does soil accidentally in the wrong place, it is likely that it will be far from his dog dish, at least six to ten feet. This is true for the place where the dog sleeps as well. But, unless you find a good place for her to go and train her in that manner, the rest of your house is okay to them.

The process for housebreaking a dog is the same if he is a puppy or an adult dog new to your home. You’ll need to take him outside every few hours and also 30 minutes after he eats. Take your pet to the designated bathroom spot. Stay with the pet until she goes, and then praise her when she does. If she does not go, bring her back inside and try again in fifteen minutes. Watch her though. If the dog starts sniffing and circling take them out right away as this is a sign that she is about to go. Pay attention to her signs and take her out. Soon, she will relate to going outside to going to the bathroom.

Some dogs are housebroken much faster than others. Some dogs personality will cause her to go one way or the other. But, if you take her outside at the right time, it will go smoother. A puppy of less than four months old will need to go out during the night. Older puppies can hold it that long. A dog that cries to be let out has an urgent need. Get up and take her out, she needs every chance to succeed that she can get. Positive reinforcement is necessary for success.

Your approach and how you treat your dog will greatly affect the learning ability. If you catch your dog going in the act, distract her with a clap or call her name. You really need to approach this with patience. Clean up any accident that you find on the floor. If the dog approaches during this time, ignore her. Don’t talk to or punish her at this point. The worst thing that you can do is to yell at her or physically punish her. This will cause her to fear you and to not bond as well to you. She wont connect it to the accident at all. Don’t create a negative condition and you and your dog will do fine together!

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If you try to potty train your dog to go to potty outside before it is a month old you may be wasting your time. It’s easier and better to start potty training your puppy around two months of age. At this point, the best approach is to work out some kind of routine with your puppy. Haphazard training rarely works.

Determine how often you think your puppy needs to go out. Establish a time range like every 30 minutes or every 45 minutes. Then stick to your schedule to train your puppy. As they grow older, the time between potty outings can grow farther apart. It’s also a good idea to take the dog out before a meal so that you are not interrupted for a potty break during your meal.

Get a routine going and maintain it and you will have your puppy potty trained in no time. Trust me; it seems to take forever if you don’t work with your dog on a schedule. You and your puppy will be more happy with a schedule which you intend to stick with.

Some people feel that establishing a routine is just too excessive. The reality is that it is a fairly simple thing to do, and it will help get your puppy trained. It is the best way for your puppy to learn. Just like potty training a child, your puppy will need to see and complete the process a number of times before it actually “clicks” that going outside means time to potty.

If your puppy refuses to go outside try your best to figure out the problem. The first thing the dog has to learn to do is potty outside, not inside. Once that is mastered you can begin to work on other puppy issues, like barking.

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Restraint/constraint isn’t needfully a negative factor. Dogs by nature want and look for social continuity in which someone is the alpha (leader); and in any human-dog pair the person has to take that position. To relinquish your role as the leader (alpha) will mean destruction of belongings, potentially unhealthy circumstances for other pets and people, human conflict and an unstable dog. The question is how best to acquire compliance from your dog.

Choke collars were conceived to help in getting control. Dogs are like humans in that each has their own character and traits. Some are, as a result, more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don’t react positively to a conventional leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can supply additional deterrence to tugging and leaping.

The imminent drawback is that, used inadequately – all too simple to do – correction collars can have the opposite result to what you expected and may even be unsafe. Choke collars fit only one way and when suitably fitted should make allowance for a one to three fingers opening between the neck and the collar. Three for bigger dogs, one for smaller. Generally speaking a collar two inches longer than the length around the neck will be adequate.

Used crudely, though, choke collars can pinch the skin – resulting in lesions that scratching will make worse. They can also by mistake pinch the trachea. A fast yank-and-release does no damage; however by its construction it does cause discomfort. But for dogs that try to defy the tether this technique can be difficult to be successful with. Ordinarily, it is not recommended, chiefly for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less hazardous than they appear, but have almost no positive characteristics -in this trainer’s opinion. The only good aspect of the structure is their limited diameter – they can only clinch down so far. Nonetheless, a critter with such a strong-willed tendency to pull that prongs do not deter him cries out for a re-thinking of his whole training regime. That animal requires persistent training and behavior modification manipulation.

Halter collars, which envelop the neck and the muzzle, but don’t stop panting or prohibit drinking and eating can give further constraint. The drawback is they don’t inhibit biting if that’s an issue. If biting is not a problem an everyday tether and collar, or maybe a chest halter might be preferable.

‘Stop-barking’ collars on occasion work when training those dogs that continue in a barking mode way past the reason to do so is gone. Barking is natural and an ordinary response to potential danger and is also used to draw attention when one becomes removed or separated from the group. But, for reasons not all that well comprehended, some individuals continue barking day in and day out or are set off by the most minor events.

Electronic collars that deter barking come in two main varieties: Shock producing collars and noise producing collars. Noise collars create a brief, uncomfortable noise that acts as a diversion and helps to prevent unrelenting barking.

Shock collars generate a quick but discomforting electronic shock that can be sustained during lengthy or recurring barking. Evenhanded and objective experimentation to discover their effectiveness divulge mixed conclusions – they work with some dogs and not others. On the other hand, as with prong collars, any dog in need of one would profit if, in addition, he had precise, professional training using behavior modification methods.

At times the perceived quickest route to solving a problem seems attractive and doable… until they become an overused alternative to more appropriate (both to trainer and dog) long-term training. Putting in the time to comprehend how to gain your dog’s undivided attention and compliance without inordinate amounts of reliance on control equipment is definitely the better way to go. The results are happier dog handlers and more stable dogs.

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The proponents of crate training maintain that a dog which has been crate trained is easier to housebreak, since crating a dog teaches them to hold off on elimination until they are allowed outside. Since animals instinctively are reluctant to do this in the place where they lie down, the thinking goes, this helps to speed along housebreaking. They also point to crates as a place which a dog can consider as its own private space where it can escape from the antics of children in the household and be comforted by its familiar smell.

There are of course crate training detractors as well. Their view is that restricting a dog’s movement by keeping it in a cage which offers barely enough room to turn around robs dogs of the opportunity to act on their natural inclination to roam and explore its surroundings.

Those on the negative side of the debate say that crate training can be counterproductive to housebreaking your pet, pointing out that puppies especially will be unable to hold themselves back from eliminating for as long as they may be in the cage and come to think of indoors as an acceptable place for this activity, which makes housebreaking the dog more difficult.

Now of course both sides make some valid points and no one doubts the good intentions of either camp. Studies done on the subject have yet to yield anything close to a definitive answer. The general consensus, however is that as long as it is done with care and common sense there is little to no harm and indeed there is some good which can come from crate training.

Of course, common sense has to be exercised. Keeping your pet in a cage for many hours on end is not healthy for your dog. Four hours is the maximum length of time you should crate your dog. Keeping your dog cooped up longer than this is a serious strain on their ability to hold back from eliminating and of course, most dogs are far too active to be happy sitting still for this long.

Care also needs to be taken to prevent injury to your dog while in the crate. The cage should be examined to make sure that there are no sharp edges or anywhere that your dog’s collar can snag on the crate. Any cage you keep your dog in should be sturdy enough that it won’t tip or break even under vigorous jostling.

Pets which are accustomed to the crate do however tend to travel better than do others. Since they are already accustomed to spending time in close quarters, they’ll be far calmer when traveling.

Another school of thought holds that pets should be left at home while their owners travel anyway. However, if it is necessary to travel with your pet, use a well built crate which prevents any foreign objects getting in, as well as falling out.

While this is an argument which is unlikely to be settled anytime soon, both sides make good points. Pet owners should decide for themselves ” but why not let your dog have a vote too? Try crating them for a few weeks, then leaving the crate open. Your dog will let you know how they feel about things by avoiding the crate or actively seeking it out.

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