The most common mistake that typical dog owners make when training their dogs has something to do with their use of commands in which they want their dogs to associate with their desired actions and nope, there is no such thing as a secret command that would have your dog cease barking as you see fit.

What I actually mean is that the use of various commands for the same results that you are expecting can certainly hurt your chances of successfully having your dog trained. This is due to the fact that dogs has a very limited capability in terms of associating a certain command of yours and are easily confused. It can really be frustrating not only for the dog owner as he wonders why things are going south, but for your canine friend as well.

It would be better to use a single command since your canine pal will find a lot easier to recognize such a command with the behavior you want him to take such as to simply cease barking.

One other thing to consider is the practice of many dog owners in terms of disciplining their dogs through a slap on the nose or two. This can be an effective way of communicating your disapproval for a dog’s certain behaviour which will then prompt them to typically change their behaviour in the hopes of getting their owner’s approval.

Well to be blunt, hitting your dog that hard are likely to achieve the same effect but your dog are certainly going to be doing it out of fear which may lead to resentment in the end which is never a good thing.

Lastly, dog owners tend to think that the goal of training their dogs can be accomplished just by simply buying a certain product for the job. One good example are shock collars which may not work as what you may had expected if you are seeing it as a convenient solution to what you want to achieve. Attention is still a number one factor when it comes to training your own dog.

A good example for this is during the use of a shock collar. In order to effectively use it as a dog training tool, you need to make sure that the dog understands why the shock occurs and it was your input that caused it. Otherwise you’ll only end up making your dog confused and helpless.

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If you learn to practice the simple rules of behavioral training, you should use the rewards to instill good behavior and punishments to make them obey instructions. Give the cat rewards or treats when called and it obeys.

The next step is to choose what you really want the cat to do. If you need to take the cat on a walk by a leash, then it is simple, just buy a collar and lay it next to its bed.

Once it gets used to seeing the collar, the next thing is to get the collar around its head each time you are giving it food. Then once in a while, allow the collar to remain on the cat’s neck for some few days. Once it accepts the collar around its neck, the next step is to attach a leash to the collar and there you are, ready for the walk.

Another hurdle is how to get the cat to use the toilet. Here you will need a litter box which you place next to the toilet on the floor, and raise the toilet lid.

Follow this by introducing a pile of newspapers to raise the box higher to the level of the toilet bowl.

You would need to keep the litter box in place by using a metal bowl for a while till the cat gets used to it, then just remove the box and the kitten will start using the toilet automatically.

This exercise requires a lot of patience and time but eventually it will pay off when the cat begins to do exactly what is expected of it.

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House Training a Dog – The First Step to Take

Before you actually start training your dog, you must observe your dog carefully, in order to spot his/her habits. If you are able to see a pattern to when the accidents happen, it’s well worth making a note in a diary for future reference.

By analysing your dog’s patterns of behaviour in this way, you might be able to get to the bottom of why things happen at certain times. For example, if your dog only makes a mess when you are away for a long time.

The Reason Why Dogs Have Accidents

There can be a number of reasons for your dog having an accident, including:

* When upset. For example, if it’s scared by loud thunder.

* Sometimes dogs will sneakily soil inside the house as a way of avoiding going outside in bad weather.

* Does your dog only make a mess whenever you are away from the house? If this is the case then it could be that your dog suffers from separation anxiety. You might need to give your dog more attention such as taking it out on more walks.

How To House Train A Dog

What you need to do is establish a routine and a correct toilet place for your dog. Regularly take your dog outside on a leash to this toilet area. If your dog does the business outside in this area, then give the dog a treat.

However, if your dog doesn’t do its mess in its outside toilet area, then just take it back in the house and repeat the routine later on. If you see any dog mess anywhere in the house, then one possible option is to keep the dog in just a few rooms of the house. Keep taking the dog outside at the regular times, and eventually it should realize that this is where it should do its doggie business.

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Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety. There are a number of contributing causes to the condition: – Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales – A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety.

Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick. – Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months.

This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog. – Neglect is the number-one cause of separation anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour.

She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.)

This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door. Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety.

Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do: – Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better. – Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining.

All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure. – When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company. – If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. – Acclimatize her to your leaving.

Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go:  jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction.

Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her. Do not: – Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

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We use a term “destructive chewing” that is somewhat redundant, because dog chewing is destructive by its very nature. The disastrous effects will be almost immediate on anything your dog will choose to chew, because he has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth.

In this article the phrase “destructive chewing” will be used only to indicate the chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

Reasons For Destructive Dog Chewing

There are three main reasons for destructive dog chewing:

1. Dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)
2. Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.
3. Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

How to Prevent Destructive Chewing

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths. Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach:

• Can she jump?
• Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object?
• How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls. It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent your dog from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide your dog with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

Maintain a Productive Attitude

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity. Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.)

Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

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